Report
from the Field
Our Trip Report
page, where each week of the season, we relay our guides' reports
of their goups' sightings and other notes on each week's adventures.
2008
Inside
Passage/Orca Humpback Odyssey, September 14-19
The last
trip of the season is always bittersweet. We almost invariably have
wonderful weather and plentiful wildlife encounters this month,
but knowing we'll soon be leaving until our return the following
June adds a bit of sadness to the time as well. True to form, this
was a stunningly good week and a fantastic way to finish off our
26th season on the British Columbia coast.
"On a tiny
islet, we sat and ate some delicious sushi (vegie - no raw fish!)
we had prepared in the morning. We were still buzzing from the close
encounter we had with a humpback mother and calf earlier in the
day. Then it happened; a colossus emerged from the deep. A huge
humpback whale breached just off our island. Then it emerged again
with another enormous crash back into the water. And then three
more times! This jaw-dropping moment is one that will stay with
all of us for a lifetime - fantastic!
"Another
day, the sun was slowly turning the sky red in the early evening
and we were enjoying the glow at the end of the day. Then in the
distance we saw a group of slowly approaching orcas traveling down
the centre of Johnstone Strait. We got in the kayaks and paddled
toward the area they were headed toward, finally sharing the sunset
with these awesome creatures.
"We also had very curious sea lions who surrounded us during
one of our kayaking adventures. We could see them swimming under
and around us. Quite a wildlife variety show. The murres and sooty
shearwaters, smaller cousins of the albatross, have come inshore
from their summer adventures at sea, ready to take safe harbour
well before the winter storms arrive. Seven humpbacks in all, a
hundred Pacific white-sided dolphins together in one pod, even a
rare elephant seal sighted at a distance.
"Our night
paddle was phenomenal. It was an inky black night to start out,
allowing the bioluminescence in the ocean to sparkle with its greatest
intensity. Then suddenly the night was transformed by the full moon
rising above the horizon. Under the clear, calm waters (hardly a
breath of wind all week), the moon lit up the entire area and we
could kayak around almost as if it were daytime. Perfect!"
We'll see
you next summer.
- - - - - -
Inside
Passage/Wildlife Discovery, September 7-12
"We saw
a humpback whale on Day 4 while having a lunch on the shore of Blackfish
Sound. On another quiet, sunny day, everyone had their senses activated,
scanning for the humpback we could hear but not see through the
fog. Eventually we found her and were given the classic 'humpback
show,' with beautiful tail flukes rising in the air before her dive.
"On Day
1, as we were getting ready to launch our kayaks onto the water,
we spotted a black bear mom with her little cub on the beach across
the channel from camp. Very, very cute.
"We had
orcas just on Days 5 & 6, but they went right by our camp, foraging
for salmon and resting on what looked like a leisurely afternoon
under sunny skies, then more of the same on our last morning.
"Our group
had varied interests and backgrounds. Lots of interesting life stories
were shared among the group. On Day 3, with a very low tide, everyone
happily paddled around camp for two hours observing the incredible
intertidal creatures and easily entertained themselves learning
about strange animals many had never seen before.
"What a
wonderful group to share a week of our favorite month with. Very
fun and very interested in learning about the creatures around us
during a week of morning fog that burned off into warm, sunny skies."
Wild
Orca Adventure, September 8-11
"We started
out with a windy first day, keeping us near camp and off the water.
But we did have a good hike and from the beach watched two pods
of orcas pass by just off the beach. We made up for our first day's
lack paddling with a long, six hours on our second and heard orcas
passing in by camp just after dark.
"Day three
was as calm as could be, with our classic September morning fog
lifting in late morning to a warm, sunny day. And what a day for
wildlife! 9am: a humpback whale and 50 dolphins; 10am: two sea lions
just off our camp; 10:15am: three orcas just around the corner from
camp, shortly after we launched our kayaks; 11:30am (while kayaking):
a black bear swimming between two small islets!; 1pm: a black bear
on a beach; 10:30pm: orcas passing by in the dark.
"Our final
day was no disappointment, either, with a pod of orcas spending
nearly an hour foraging for salmon just off camp on another nearly
windless day. The last Wild Orca Adventure of our season was just
that: wild orcas and much more."
- - - - - -
Inside
Passage/Orca Humpback Odyssey, August 31-September 5
"In my
five years guiding here, this was the most incredible week of wildlife
I've had, let alone a nearly perfect, warm, calm six days. Just
a few of the highlights:
"Orcas
passed camp shortly after arriving on our first day. We did a fantastic
circumnavigation of the island on Day 2 and ran into sea lions and
porpoises along the way (of course eagles and their nests were regularly
spotted along the route). Day three found us paddling through a
gorgeous set of islets and running into two pods of orcas and more
sea lions.
"Day four
was our moving day, traveling from our Johnstone Strait area camp
to our Blackfish Archipelago camp. Along the way and under sunny
skies, we encountered another orca pod, sea lions, seals and one
lonesome Dall's porpoise. Our night paddle was as peaceful and beautiful
as can be, the luminescense sparkling off our paddles.
"Day five
was a long day of paddling, making the most of each chance for exploration
with the calm waters and sunny skies. Two humpback whales made appearances
for us, along with sea lions, harbour porpoises and a family of
river otters - a mom and four kids. We awoke our last morning to
late summer fog and another very calm day, with sun filling the
sky by mid-morning. Our morning paddle through the narrow channel
was a nice, relaxing way to finish up and we even saw a mink scrambling
along the rocks on the shore. A spectacular week it was!"
Wild
Orca Adventure, September 1-4
"Wild Orca
indeed! We saw orcas every single day on this trip. They came by
camp twice, once as the sun was sinking behind the island and again
just before we left on our last day. On the third day, we paddled
out and were rewarded with an incredible, encounter as they came
right up to us. We watched them for an hour, feeding and popping
up, going all directions as they chased salmon. They were joined
by about 10 Dall's porpoises that were torpedoing through the water,
following closely the movements of the orcas. Bob &Bren and
Rebecca & Craig were incredibly close as orcas surfaced for
breaths right beside their kayaks. Everyone was giffy and happy
after such a great experience, a special time spent with such beautiful
animals. We eventually turned toward camp. Turning back for a last
look, we saw that the orcas had formed a "resting line"
and had also turned. We sat and watched them again as they passed
us, surfacing in unison. What a day!"
- - - - - -
Inside
Passage/Wildlife Discovery, August 24-29
"This was
really an upbeat group, able to make everything fun despite it being
not the best weather of the summer. We had less time on the water
than usual due to winds, but we kept things high-spirited with hikes,
shared stories, and camaraderie.
"We saw
four of the 'local' (what are called "resident") orca
pods: A23, A25, A24 and I11. Not to mention northern sea lions,
river otters, harbour seals and Dall's porpoises.
"On our
last day in camp we ventured out and encountered several pods of
orcas traveling westward with some of the family members stopping
to have a look at us, all rafted together in our kayaks. It was
hard to know which way to look at times; there were orcas on all
sides of us.
"Our night
paddle was a first and very memorable experience for most of our
group. With perfect conditions, we were surrounded by sparkles in
the water and in the sky. The glassy waters and reflections of the
stars on the water left us feeling like we were floating in the
sky."
Wild
Orca Adventure, August 25-28
"After
a couple of days of "liquid sunshine," we were more than
ready for a great orca encounter. On our way back to camp on day
three, we saw pods coming our way. So we anchored ourselves in a
kelp bed and waited. Our patience paid off when pod after pod came
by us in an orca parade, so many we didn't know where to look. Every
time we looked back, another pod was coming around the point. One
orca breached in front of us twice; another came very close to one
of our kayaks; and we even saw a newborn baby, doing very well in
the current with its mother. What a show!
Note: we
usually see one or two "superpods" each season. This spectacular
event is a congregation of most of the northern orca community pods
in Johnstone Strait, with perhaps 85-150 whales, usually in August
or September.
"Our last
paddle gave us another encounter with our curious young seal from
three weeks ago. He swam around our kayaks, touching paddles and
visiting everyone, close enough to touch. We hope this little guy
sticks around a while!
"We did
a great hike to a cliff-top viewpoint called Eagle Eye. The hike
through the forest and the view at the top were beautiful.
"We had
two birthdays this week, one before the trip and one just after,
both celebrated with yummy brownies, candles and balloons. What
a positive, congenial group. We all had a great time getting to
know each other, with plenty to talk about."
- - - - - -
Inside
Passage/Orca Humpback Odyssey, August 17-22
“We had
a pretty diverse week with lots of wildlife sightings. We saw Dall’s
porpoises right from the start of our water taxi ride to camp, rooster-tailing
while chasing fish, then riding the bow of our water taxi. We saw
orcas five of the six days and even had three encounters on the
same day: morning, afternoon and evening!
“Sea lions
approached us one day, surfacing and playfully watching us, swimming
alongside us until we turned a corner and left them behind. Early
one morning we woke early to orcas passing camp, then watched them
for the next hour and a half as they fished for salmon. Pacific
white-sided dolphins passed by a little further out in Johnstone
Strait.
“We saw
harbour porpoises, seals, kingfishers, eagles, phalaropes and auklets,
just a few of the many species who inhabit our area. We had beautiful,
glassy waters for our night paddle, with stars in the sky peeking
through the misty sky.
“A super
fun group! From the pre-trip meeting on we knew were going to have
a lot of fun. Through some rain, some sun, wind and calm, we all
really enjoyed this group of adventurous souls who had come together
from many different places to experience the best place on earth
to kayak and to encounter some incredible marine life.”
Wild
Orca Adventure, August 18-21
“The perfect,
glassy waters relinquished no sign of the huge mammals that lay
beneath. The small islands in the distance sat seemingly suspended
between the low cloud and the perfect water. We scanned the sea’s
surface intently and then we saw them, tell-tale blows in the distance,
coming toward us. Though the delicious smells of dinner were wafting
through camp, we couldn’t pull ourselves away from watching
the whales from the edge of the rocky shoreline. Then . . . whoosh
. . . right beside camp a huge orca popped up and made us jump.
“A really
fun group that came together from three different countries. We
laughed a lot, weathered a little rain, and loved the whales, the
kayaking, the sea lions and the whole experience of living with
nature for a few days.”
- - - - - -
Inside
Passage/Wildlife Discovery, August 10-15
“On our
crossing day (from our first to second camps) we had an incredible,
hot, sunny day. We stopped on a beach where hydrophones were set
up and, while we had lunch, listened to orcas calling each other.
As we left that beach, three Steller’s sea lions appeared
in front of us and we watched them for nearly twenty minutes before
completing our journey to our new camp.
“As orcas
from G-Clan approached camp, one of our English guests, Mark, started
whistling. The whales then stopped and stayed with us for about
half an hour, vocalizing above water, seemingly in response! Over
the next two days orcas visited us up close four more times near
camp.
“The birds
are in migration now as more arrive every week from the north as
well as coming in from the open ocean. A bear rustled in the buses
behind one beach as we did some morning stretching. Despite very
warm, sunny days, the skies clouded at night, so we missed the peak
of the meteor showers. But the calm, sparkling waters under our
kayaks made up for it during the daytime.
“This
group really enjoyed venings around the campfires, watching the
sky change colors. They experienced some of the best our trips have
to offer and appeared to appreciate every bit of it.”
Wild
Orca Adventure, August 11-14
We paddle
in the darkness at least once on each trip but often don’t
mention it as it’s hard to describe both the feeling and the
magic of floating on the water at night and the vision of the luminescent
waters, sparkling like a million fireworks under the kayaks. But
this week’s night paddle was too good not to feature.
“The most
incredible night paddle!! With perfect, calm conditions, our boats
glided over the waters of Johnstone Strait and drifted into the
darkness. We were accompanied by the sounds of orcas blowing and
their underwater vocalizations that came through our hydrophones.
The fog on the strait added the element of mystery as we could hear
the blows and calls become louder as they approached us, invisible
in the darkness. By their calls, we identified the pods who passed
us as of the A clan, then the I clan and finally the G clan, five
pods of orcas in all. A magical night.
“On our
third day out, we woke to heavy fog and heard three pods go by,
kind of a replay of the previous night’s invisible whale show!
Once the fog lifted, though, we launched our kayaks and once again
orcas headed our way, stopping just in front of us and very close
to camp, feeding for two hours!
“A seal
pup visited at one point, approaching several of our kayaks appearing
to want to be scratched as it did somersaults next to our cockpits.
Pacific white-sided dolphins and harbour seals also made appearances
during our too-short four days out.
“What
a fantastic four days out there with a very fun and easy-going group
– all ages, different backgrounds and four different countries
all joined together and found common ground to create a really enjoyable
adventure for everyone.”
- - - - - -
Inside
Passage/Orca Humpback Odyssey – August 3-8
“Another
amazing week! Lots of encounters, fun and memorable experiences
among family, friends and new friends. Lots of orca sightings during
the first few days of the trip, even from the water taxi. Breaching,
tail lobbing, and a few pods traveling together. We saw a mother
black bear with two cubs and watched them feed, searching for crabs
on a sunny afternoon.
“This
was a week of teaching and learning, of cultural exchange and artistic
expression. Lots of singing. We loved watching some of our guests’
excitement, especially when orcas went by and on seeing some porpoises
harass the orcas one day.
Orcas on Days
1, 2 and 3. Four pods on the Day 1 and lots of other sightings throughout
the weeks. Lots of birds!: great blue herons, rhinoceros auklets,
sooty shearwaters are already in from the open ocean, bald eagles,
northern phalaropes, endangered marbled murrelets, and the song
birds are starting to migrate through as well. We
also saw several mink, dolphins, seals and a sea lion.
“It was
a very special week, with memorable experiences, excitement, fun,
relaxation and bonding among our group of travelers. Nobody wanted
the trip to end.”
Wild
Orca Adventure – August 4-7
“The biggest
highlight of this trip was our ‘Wild Seal Adventure!’
While paddling one day, a curious young seal followed us. When we
stopped to float and watch him, he came right up to our kayaks,
fascinated by our paddles and rudders. He touched his nose to our
paddles, rubbed his head on our rudders, and glided under our kayaks,
belly up, close enough to touch.
“Our trip
started out well, with orcas seen from the water taxi on the way
in to camp. Later the first day, we were surprised by two orcas
during our paddle back to camp. We encountered resting orcas in
a pass and then 50-60 dolphins, moving very fast and occasionally
leaping out of the water.
“One evening
we sat around exchanging jokes and on our last night had some excellent
singing and stargazing around the camp fire.
“Our
last morning brought us a sea lion feeding in the kelp beds near
camp. We floated nearby, hearing its breathing in the stillness.
“As always,
good company and wildlife made the trip.”
- - - - - -
Inside
Passage/Wildlife Discovery – July 27-August 1
“Our Wildlife
Discovery expedition lived up to its name this week. On our water
taxi ride to camp we saw three humpback whales feeding. Later on
our first day, we saw eagles feeding as well. Our following days
brought us harbour porpoises very close to our kayaks, more eagles,
black bears – one with two small and very cute cubs –
a dolphin who leaped into the air and a family of river otters scampering
onto an island.
“Orcas
passed our second camp not long after we arrived. And when we saw
salmon jumping the next day, we might have expected the great orca
‘finale’ that was in store. On our last trip in the
kayaks, we took no more than five strokes of the paddles when the
orcas were upon us. We watched in complete awe as a female and calf
passed in front of our ‘raft’ of kayaks. The calf’s
vocalizations could even be heard above the water. The orcas passed
by us twice more, once in a mystical fog that suddenly rolled in
and again on the water taxi ride home. This day was magic!
“Seeing
the mother bear and cubs was very special. We watched her teach
them how to forage along the seashore and they would scamper after
her wherever she went; very cute!
“What
didn’t we see this trip? There was also a minke whale, two
close encounters with sea lions, seals, and just about every other
animal that lives here – even an amazing congregation of a
million baby moon jellyfish in one bay. Great trip!!”
Wild
Orca Adventure – July 28-31
“We started
off our week with a show from the A36 pod of orcas, three big males
who roam the strait together, feeding in the current in front of
camp for half an hour. The next day we were welcomed to the Pacific
coast rainforest with a taste of liquid sunshine – sporadic
showers that dimpled the water around us and left us feeling alive
in the elements.
“On day
3 we paddled in perfect, glassy calm water to some small islands,
took a great hike to visit some orca researchers and watched a sea
lion swim below the cliff. On our paddle back to camp, orcas swam
toward and right past us as we sat and watched, marveling at their
beauty.
“Just
before bed on our last night we fell asleep to the sound of a humpback
whale trumpeting in the water next to our camp; he was the third
humpback we had seen.
“We had
a beautiful, still night for our night paddle; the sky was cloudy,
making it darker and all the better for seeing the bioluminescense,
which was spectacular. In the dark, we heard whales blowing as they
passed nearby.
“A bit
of everything this trip: wind rain, sun, clouds and lots of wildlife,
including orcas, humpbacks, seals, eagles, porpoises, dolphins and
a sea lion. A great trip with an excited, international group.”
-
- - - - -
Inside
Passage/Orca Humpback Odyssey – July 20-25
“On day
two the whales came to town! We spotted them from high up on the
island, returned to camp and went for a paddle. As we approached
the end of the island, about 12 orcas cruised past in the direction
of Robson Bight. Later that evening, more orcas passed our camp
as the sun began to sink behind the trees.
“A huge
male, transient orca known as T14 sliced through the water ahead
of us in the warm evening sun. We gathered on the rocky headland
at camp to watch him pass by.
“Later
in the week, we circumnavigated a larger island, seeing a black
bear and sea lion during the journey. A rare puffin sighting topped
off our day just before we paddled around the corner to see an eagle
eating a fish on the rocks.
“We watched
the spectacular bioluminescence while paddling in the dark, with
the stars also reflected in the water. Beautiful weather, glassy
water, a great group and lots of fun.”
Wild
Orca Adventure – July 21-14
“Another
memorable and exciting adventure! Lots of wildlife – resident
and transient orcas, humpback whales, black bears, seals, porpoises,
bald eagles . . . A really fun and easy-going group.
“On our
first day, a group of transient orcas made a turn into the passage
our camp is on and passed by us in our kayaks! The next day we heard
on the radio of several pods of orcas heading our way, spread out
across Johnstone Strait, in front of camp. As we floated in the
sunshine, they passed, but a distance across the strait by the time
they went by us.
“We had
two unexpected black bear sightings – not common near this
camp – as the low tides in the morning brought them to the
shoreline to feast on intertidal life.
“On the
last day, an early morning paddle with a few members of the group
was one of the highlights of the trip as we paddled through glassy
water under the sunrise. A super fun, relaxed and enjoyable trip
with a fantastic group of people.”
- - - - - -
Inside
Passage/Wildlife Discovery - July 13-18
"Reflections
from the shore were mirrored perfectly on the glassy calm ocean
and eagles perched above us while watching our progress intently.
This was the quintessence of the British Columbia coast.
"While
walking through the trees, laughter floated to me from the rocks
on the seashore. The sun was shining and everyone was happy among
new friends. Sharing stories and hearing about guests’ adventures
and life experiences under the full moon and around the fire or
while enjoying the evening at our campsites were some of our favorite
moments.
"Like our
Wild Orca trip this week, it was humpbacks we saw rather than orcas.
Very surprising, as the orcas were in the area, just not right where
either of our groups happened to be at any given time. But the humpbacks
were wonderful and we saw dolphins, sea lions and of course lots
and lots of eagles.
"This was
a very enthusiastic group of adventurous folks. Their average age
must have been over 60 but they had more energy and fun spirit than
you could imagine! They were all very keen on learning new things
and enjoying themselves. A real week of appreciation of life and
nature."
Wild
Orca Adventure - July 14-17
"As soon
as we got off the water taxi at camp, we were greeted by a humpback
whale feeding just off camp. A good sign that started a great trip.
The sun was out and the water was calm as we paddled away on our
first afternoon. We snuck into a narrow passage near camp that leads
to a beautiful lagoon surrounded by towering hemlock and cedar trees
and watched eagles soaring. A great first day.
"We had
front row seats to another humpback show the next day from our kayaks,
the best vantage point you could ask for. Tail slapping, fluke waving
and splashing – we left grinning from ear to ear.
"All in
all, a brilliant trip. The group was so much fun; everyone appreciated
everything that happened. We had beautiful, sunny skies, dancing
whales and lots of laughs. Some of us even managed to go for a group
swim at the beach for at least 1.5 seconds!
"Sitting
around our smoky fire and singing and laughing together on the last
night was a real highlight; we had changed from a bunch of strangers
to a group of friends."
- - - - - -
Inside
Passage/Orca Humpback Odyssey - July 6-11
"It seemed
like we couldn't go anywhere without seeing a humpback whale this
week! Thr first one came up just a few metres from our kayaks. After
he swam off and we paddled back to camp, another one came up really
close to us.
"Orcas!
The A8 and A23 pods were in the strait this week and on the second
day of our trip, passed our camp in the morning. After a perfect,
sunny day of kayaking, the orcas again graced us with their presence
by passing camp twice more in the evening. We saw them once again
on our third day. What incredible, beautiful animals.
"The humpbacks
are getting used to the kayaks, coming up closer and more often
than in the past and making for some truly incredible encounters.
Of course that wasn't all we saw: mink on the beach, a sea lion
popped up behind one kayak, plus harbour seals and all kinds of
sea birds.
"Our group
of nine played wilderness bocce on a windy afternoon in camp, filling
the forest with whoops and cheers. Our night paddle was absolutely
magic: 'like a fairy tale - I wanted to take it home to England
with me.'"
Wild
Orca Adventure - July 7-10
"An incredible
four days! Lots and lots of wildlife sightings starting from the
water taxi ride from Port McNeill to camp, when we saw orcas, humpbacks
and white-sided dolphins, then more orcas and humpbacks once we
arrived in camp.
"We had
a very close humpback encounter just around the corner from camp.
Amazing - as we paddled near shore, the whale rolled through the
kelp bed only 20 metres from our kayaks - an awe-inspiring view
of the natural behavior of one of the largest creatures on the planet.
"The A5
pod of orcas was a wonderful sight and the daily (sometimes several
times) sightings of humpbacks was really special. Eagles were everywhere
- 19 were together on one small island.
"We had
a great, diverse group of adventurous souls. They enjoyed themselves,
made new friends and experienced some impressive aspects of nature,
some very much up close."
- - - - - -
There's nothing
like finally getting on the water after a long winter. Our first
trips went out on June 29 and 30 and returned with these reports:
Inside
Passage/Wildlife Discovery - June 29-July 3 - notes from our guides:
The weather
continued to shine all week, with just a little morning fog. We
all came back with tans.
A humpback whale
traveled by very close to our camp; we all stood on the rocks and
smelled its breath after it blew just metres off the rocks.
We saw a two
adult bears and one cub on one of the beaches this week, as well
as eagles, porpoises and seals and all the sea birds.
This was a super
fun and diverse group that bonded really well. They enjoyed exploring
the intertidal life and sharing learning about life they had never
seen before.
"We couldn't
have asked for a better start of the season; good weather, a spefial,
fun grou and great wildlife sightings all week. Just what the Wildlife
Discovery is all about."
Wild
Orca Adventure - June 30-July 2
It was a great
week for humpback whale sightings from our camp and while on the
water. "The theme of this trip was sunshine and humpbacks;
we were lucky enough to have both every day. On the first day, one
humpback stayed across the channed. But on the second day he came
by our camp as we were heading in for hte day. Next day, he again
came quite close, resting on the surface between deep dives that
showed his tail flukes. And for a grand finale, he breached right
in front of our water taxi on the way in - wow!"
The eagle's
nest in the tree in the middle of our camp is active and eagles
were seen trying to catch fish. "Eagles were everywhere this
week - soaring, perching, diving for fish and once two locked talons
an spun downward toward the water before separating at the last
second."
The low tide
allowed a great chance to see urchins, sea cucumbers, enomones,
tube sorms, sponges and inidescent, purple seaweed.
Some transient
orcas passed through the area but unfortunately we weren't able
to catch a glimpse of them. But we did see salmon jumping, a sure
sign there's going to be plenty to eat once our orcas arrive in
numbers for the summer.
This trip had
so much going on and it was such a great group that we left feeling
it was a perfect start to the season.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2007
  It’s
always with a bit of sadness that we reach the end of our kayaking
adventures for the season. But we have polished off another season
on the waters of British Columbia’s Inside Passage. Our September
17-20 Wild Orca Adventure is back in port and our final
travelers are beginning their journeys home. Luke, Sam and Cory
led our group and filed this report.
“The
first day, as if like the perfect welcoming committee, orcas passed
by our camp on four separate occasions. What a way to start a trip!
“The second
evening, after a day of some windy conditions, we watched a mother
and calf humpback pass within 100 yards of camp as we gathered on
the shoreline. We watched in awe at their enormity and the misty
spouts that lingered in the evening light.
"And if
whales understood dramatics, they certainly played the part on our
final morning. On the glassy, calm waters they passed well ahead
of us. Just hoping for a final glimpse, we followed. Suddenly they
stopped and turned. For an hour we sat as the orcas foraged for
salmon all around us. A great finale to a wonderful trip.”
“Sea lions
were seen almost every day, passing by camp and even stopping for
a few breaths to take a closer look at us. Our now-familiar baby
seal kept an eye on us. Dall’s porpoises were seen regularly.
A group of Pacific white-sided dolphins was following the orcas
on our last morning. At one point, they were all jumping clear of
the water as they were racing amongst the whales. Incredible sight.
“Rosemary
celebrated her 50th birthday the first night out with a great campfire,
a perfect, starry sky and a big surprise birthday cake. Lots of
fun. We had a beautiful night paddle, some of us got up very early
to do a sunrise paddle on the final morning of the season. Our entire
group – Britons, Australians, Canadians and Americans, had
the perfect attitude to make this the best ending of a season possible.”
Our season always winds down too early; we have now
reached the last week of another wonderful series of kayaking adventures.
Our last six-day Inside Passage adventure has returned from the
wild and our next to last Wild Orca Adventure is also back.
Our six-day Orca Humpback Odyssey that began September
9 was led by
Luke Gutowski, who is making a “cameo” return for the
last two weeks of the summer. This is Luke’s seventh season
with Northern Lights. Luke's notes:
“Our
first day, having just arrived in camp, we were sitting overlooking
the ocean and a group of fifty Pacific white-sided dolphins raced
by our rocky perch. They threw up numerous ‘rooster tails,’
and did a few leaps clear of the water. And for the rest of the
day, they continued to move back and forth in an area within sight
of camp.
“Humpbacks
stole the show this week, being sighted five of the six days. And
on two separate days, they surfaced within 20 yards of our kayaks
on the flat calm water. At that distance, we all gained a true appreciation
of the spectacular size and incredible grace of these gentle giants.
And of course, there was almost always a group ‘Ahhhh’
. . . in unison, watching tail flukes come up on the final deep
dive.
“We only
saw orcas one morning as the A30 pod passed us traveling in Johnstone
Strait. Numerous sea lions, seals, river otters, Dall’s porpoises,
harbour porpoises, bald eagles, common murres, phalaropes, cormorants
and great blue herons all combined to make this a big week for the
encounters we all came for.
“Perfect
September conditions were a true highlight this week. Mirror-like
water and sunny afternoons in combination with the fact that we
almost had the waters to ourselves made for excellent kayaking.
The moonless night gave us a midnight blue sky and brightly sparkling
luminescence as we paddled in the dark.
“A fantastic
group who took every advantage to paddle and was rewarded with perfect
September weather and incredible wildlife encounters. It's great
to be back!”
Samanta
Chu was lead guide on our September 10th Wild Orca Adventure
and sent this report:
“On a
week without much luck with orcas, which seldom happens, we were
very fortunate with great humpback and northern sea lion encounters,
not to mention the beautiful, sunny and warm weather. At the end
of the season, the waters of the Inside Passage are once again at
their calmest month of the year. Most of the summer boat traffic
has gone and we really felt isolated from civilization.
“After
a very pleasant afternoon paddle on our first day, visiting the
beautiful and peaceful waters of our secret tidal lagoon, the group
split and paddled and hiked to Cracroft Point. We were presented
with a show given by a humpback whale feeding in Blackney Passage,
swimming in circles and breaching while accompanied by about 100
Pacific white-sided dolphins.
“That
was one of several humpback whale encounters and very close views
of wild Northern sea lions who seem to have gotten very interested
in our Wild Orca groups from week to week. A harbour seal pup has
taken to hanging out on a rock near camp and seems very comfortable
with kayakers passing by.
“We were
able to see all the ‘usual’ Inside Passage sea birds,
as well as eagles and herons, but also joined by several migrating
species and some of the birds that come to inshore waters after
a summer at sea. We had a very diverse and interesting group who
appreciated the humpbacks despite the mysteriously vanished orcas
this week.”
 Our
first report this week is from guides Matt and Luke from our September
3rd four-day Wild Orca Adventure. Here
are quotes from their report:
“The first
day we were treated to a visit by some of the locals: orcas, humpbacks
and sea lions put out the welcome mat! We had a big first day’s
paddle which was eagerly completed by a strong crew. The second
day involved a morning’s paddle through some of our favorite
little islands.
“We followed
that with a walk through the forest as sun filtered through the
canopy of trees. Our arrival at a clifftop was timed perfectly for
the crystal clear skies to emerge. We had a great interpretive talk
from one of the whale researchers there.
“Highlights?:
The humpback whales this trip were incredible! We had one putting
on a show right in front of camp and saw a total of seven this trip.
And the dark night gave us wonderful luminescence during our night
paddle and we also experimented 'writing' with our headlamps.
“We bonded
on our first night around the camp fire. Our newlywed couple from
Japan was very friendly and curious about everything. We ended as
a very close group who all had something to offer and to share.”
Samanta,
Ryan and Mat led our September 2nd Wildlife Discovery
trip (our last one of the season). Highlights from their journal:
“We were
land bound by wind on our 5th day. One of our guides and a few guests
decided on a big hike to OrcaLab, a research station on the far
side of the island where one of our guests had done some volunteer
research work a few years ago. A challenging hike ensued, but it
was a happy reunion and all were able to pass ancient cedar and
spruce trees along the way.
“This
group wanted to see orcas! And they did, with sightings almost every
day. One of our guides and a guest who had stayed up after midnight
heard the blows of orcas coming. They turned up the hydrophone volume
enough to wake up most of our group, who then got to listen to the
R Pod passing by for a good half hour.
“Our closest
encounter in the kayaks was during our move from one camp to the
next. Four orcas came out of nowhere and surprised us by surfacing
right next to our kayaks, surprising us all. We also saw humpback
whales on two occasions. A ‘friendly’ sea lion made
a very close pass, snorting and splashing for us on our final paddle.
And we kayaked into a symphony of birds calls as we approached a
couple of ‘herring balls,’ (tightly packed schools of
herring being herded by birds from above and fish from below). Common
murres dove on the herring, tiny northern phalaropes joined in at
the edges and even loons added to the bird life.
“We had
a variety of weather: sun, wind, calm water. The group really appreciated
the warm, sunny days and the beautiful, mystical landscape, revealed
as the morning fog burned off as each day unfolded. We had a very
relaxed, easy going group who shared a great sense of humour and
had a great time despite some wind during the week. Everyone enjoyed
themselves, the sun, the whales and the kayaking.”
 As
our August trips end and those of September begin, last week’s
reports show that things are still flowing along very well.
Our August
26 Inside Passage/Orca Humpback Odyssey was made up of
13 guests and led by Cory, Luke and Ryan. Luke’s report:
“A highlight
would have to be the ease with which we saw the orcas! They went
straight past camp on the very first day; after that we saw them
up close from the kayaks. It was hard to know where to look as they
were surfacing all around us, breaching and spyhopping.
“Two of
our six days of weather weren’t ideal but everyone made the
most of everything that came: walks through the forest, reading
and relaxing, and enjoying a wet campfire evening.
“To sum
up the whales – most days we had ‘heaps of them’
(a Kiwi-ism from our New Zealand guide), plus dolphins surfing the
wake of a whale watching boat, Dall’s porpoises, etc.
“The night
paddle was great fun, as always, with an amazing echo filtering
around the bays and an array of animal noises being projected from
the kayaks! This was a really fun group! The last day summed it
up when one of the guides managed to connect a line to Craig &
Ken’s kayak. The two doctors ended up towing everyone without
realizing it and a great sense of appreciation was shown by everyone
(watch
a clip of the joke here).”
“This
group made the trip seem like a dream to even the guides –
helpful, caring people, great whale encounters and plenty of light
hearted humour going around!”
Matt’s
report from the August 27 Wild Orca Adventure:
“The first
day brought some amazing weather and within the first ten minutes
of paddling we were greeted by orcas who were foraging around the
point (about 100 yards from camp). So we sat in the kelp bed and
were entertained for over an hour. Not a bad start!
“There’s
a secret lagoon we can only explore at the times of very high tides.
This week we had big tides, so, after an exciting trip through the
lagoon’s narrow mouth, we were able to spend some magical
time inside the lagoon.
“Returning
to town on the water taxi, the whales came by to say goodbye and
put on an awesome show. We had bald eagles every day, as always,
nearly 30 blue herons fishing from the kelp beds, and Steller’s
(northern) sea lions each day as well.
“This
was a fun group of nine guests who were inspired and awed by the
whales and the incredible landscapes.”
 Mat
and Cory led our August 20th Wild Orca Adventure.
Notes from their report:
“The main
highlight of this week’s trip was a late night orca encounter.
One of our English guests spotted the A30 pod coming down the passage
in front of camp. After a hasty kayak launch, we were treated to
an up close visit. The whole group was very vocal and stayed with
us for a good five minutes. At the same time, we had a group of
three sea lions competing for our attention.
“We had
a group of early risers this week and had a rare treat of doing
a dawn paddle with a portion of our guests. We sat in a kelp bed
while another group of three sea lions checked us out as successive
waves of sea fog enveloped us and then cleared.
“Each
morning as we left camp, a plump, baby seal dubbed ‘Tugs’
was nestled in the seaweed on the rocks. He stayed as content and
relaxed as ever as we drifted closely by to watch a big yawn and
a blink of its big, dark eyes.
“Cory
demonstrated her sea lion growl when a sea lion leaved himself out
of the water a few yards from her kayak, displaying his flippers
amidst a huge splash.
“Another
great group who all got along fantastically well. Superb trip.”
  Samanta,
Matt and Darren were our August 19th Wildlife Discovery
expedition leaders this week. A big bunch of whale enthusiasts,
after seeing black bears right away to start their week, they turned
this trip into a non-stop search for whale encounters.
“We woke
to a foggy Johnstone Strait on Day 3. By 9am we could hear the whales’
blows and on the hydrophone we could hear their calls but the fog
was too thick to see them. Slowly it lifted to reveal a gorgeous
morning and the whales, to give us a beautiful show.
“We celebrated
two birthdays on our last night out, eating a delicious birthday
cake before heading out in the dark for our night paddle on the
luminescent waters.
“We saw
two humpbacks on our fourth morning as well as the A33, A12 and
I pods of orcas. Two black bears and lots of sea lions and of course
eagles. We also took a hike that allowed us to meet David Garrick
at his home, one of the original Greenpeace members who now lives
on of the islands we camp on, working on projects that aim to preserve
the area’s habitat.
“Blessed
by beautiful weather and lots of whales and other wildlife, we seemed
to see another amazing show around every corner. We had a fun group
and an awesome overall week.”
 Samanta
and Mat led a very successful, August 12th six-day Orca
Humpback Odyssey during the past week. Quotes from their
review:
“On the
very first day, as we finished settling in and having lunch, a pod
of orcas welcomed us moving past our camp in Johnstone Strait. After
they passed, we got into our kayaks on the absolutely flat calm
water and paddled in the direction of another pod of whales that
was approaching from the distance. We usually see whales coming
and make sure to give them plenty or room, but these whales had
disappeared for a long time underwater and we thought we had missed
our chance to see them. They then stunned us by rising to the surface
just ahead of us and swimming under our kayaks. Closely behind them
was a group of Pacific White-sided dolphins and then more orcas.
All we could do was guess which way to look, as the orcas breached
and swam around us. What a beginning!
“We paddled
three times at night on this trip. Our favorite was the one on the
night following the peak of the Perseid meteor shower. It was hard
to decide whether to look down at the explosion of bioluminescence
in the water or up at the still numerous meteors in the sky. They
shot in every direction, scratching the night sky with light and
keeping us cheering.
“We had
a number of other close encounters with orcas, dolphins, and humpback
whales. Bald eagles are still plentiful enough to get used to seeing
them as a normal part of the landscape. And we had a diverse group
of people who to entertained themselves, shared experiences and
fully enjoyed the week.”
Matt,
Ryan and Luke led our August 13th four-day Wild Orca Adventure,
also with great success for all. This group also had a surprise
pod of whales surfacing around and swimming under them, this time
just in front of camp as they were heading out for a day’s
paddle. We often rest our kayaks in the kelp beds, which is one
method of giving the orcas plenty of room to go about their day
without being concerned about where kayaks are. But this family
decided to head right through the kelp bed, surprising us with whales
beside us and under us.
“On another
occasion, a visit from three large, male sea lions just before our
arrival back in camp opened eyes and put big grins on faces. We
saw numerous pods of orcas this trip. We had a honeymoon couple,
one on their 10th wedding anniversary trip, and even one who claimed
to be a “whale whisperer,” and no doubt she was as it
worked almost too well!”
“This
was a strong, fun, laugh-a-minute crew, mixed in with excellent
wildlife encounters that made for a brilliant week.”
 Our
August 5th Wildlife Discovery trip had goals of
lots of diverse paddling opportunities as well as finding as many
whales as we could in six days. A first day paddling among smaller
islands along narrow channels got us prepared for a big second day.
Three humpback
whales entertained us during the morning, including some very close
encounters. In the afternoon, the group split up as our five friends
from Oklahoma wanted to do a little fishing and hiking while the
rest of our group went for a leisurely paddle in Blackfish Sound
and Knight Inlet.
Day
three was a great one for paddling around another island, where
lunch on a warm, sunny beach led some of the group to jump into
the cold ocean waters. Day four was moving day, with beautiful paddling
conditions and even more swimming.
On Day 5, we
awoke to about 20 orcas swimming right past the beach at camp. Not
long after, they returned for another pass. We followed that with
a wonderful island hike through the island. The evening was spent
with a great dinner and guitar and harmonica around the campfire.
Finally on Day 6, orcas right by our camp again and humpbacks passing
by offshore.
We all became
close on this trip and had a ton of fun. A real appreciation for
nature was shown by all. This was a unique trip that allowed a bunch
of interesting people to come together and share a common adventure.
And the wildlife seemed to reward these great folks with close encounters
and special moments.
 Our
August 6th Wild Orca Adventure benefited from a
big run of salmon in our area, bringing the orcas into the area
in numbers. We had whales all trip, especially on our last day,
when pod after pod swam by as we sat in a nearby kelp bed and watched
the show.
We knew we were
off to a good start when a humpback appeared just off camp on our
first day out. A sea lion came close to our kayaks and when Cory
imitated a sea lion growl, it swam under her kayak. Orcas appeared
numerous times for us to encounter and watch.
One mystical,
foggy morning we made our way along the shoreline to a beach with
a trailhead. We began our hike that ended at the top of a cliff
and a spectacular view of Johnstone Strait, overlooking most of
the best orca habitat in this area.
The bioluminescence
that sparkled during our night paddle got a very enthusiastic response
from our group. Always a surprising highlight for those who have
never seen it, the shimmering plankton that are so bright under
a dark sky were for many the highlight of the trip. But as we have
found for 25 seasons, it’s the orcas, especially when seen
in such numbers as this week, that leave an indelible imprint on
our guests and guides.
 Our
July 29th Orca Humpback Odyssey, led by Cory, Darren
and Ryan, came back with these comments:
“We
had one of the best orca encounters of the season on day one of
this trip! On our way back to camp we were following a big male
who was off to our side a ways, when he suddenly changed course,
coming up right in front of Helen and Neil’s kayak.
“On day
three the orcas were in the strait again and a female with a calf
and a male unexpectedly came up the strait right off camp, very
near the shore. A pleasant surprise as we watched them make their
way slowly up the coastline for a good half hour.
“As
we paddled to our second camp, we came across hundreds of sea gulls
in a feeding frenzy over a school of herring – it was very
cool and made better when eagles came swooping in over and over
to get their share of the fish.
“On day
two, almost all our guests went swimming – we’ve been
having wonderful, hot weather here this summer and it’s always
great to jump in the cold water to cool off.
“On our
last day we finally got a glimpse of a humpback whale – far
away across the sound, his blows clear against the green islands.
“The sea
glittered during our night paddle, but the most spectacular part
was the flashes of lightning far away against the sky.
“We really
enjoyed this group – it was a great mix of mostly solo travelers
from all over, making a fantastic blend of people. They were always
joking and laughing and we all had a great time together.”
Samanta
and Luke led our July 30th Wild Orca Adventure
this week. Sam’s comments:
“Another
incredible week! Amazing wildlife, weather and a very, very special
group. By the end of the week, everybody felt like they made life-long
friendships and shared something special with them. Right on day
one, as we were getting the kayaks on the water for our first paddle,
we saw orcas go by on Blackney Passage, just past our camp. At first
we saw three whales feeding on salmon but later we found ourselves
blessed by six of them, including two young ones, two large males
and two females. They swam back and forth for over an hour as we
floated along and observed them. At one moment, one whale unexpectedly
surfaced right in between two kayaks, surprising everybody in a
very pleasant way!! A sea lion then surfaced next to our kayaks.
Turns out this female became our friend for the week as we could
expect to see her over and over again whenever we found ourselves
at that spot.
“At
the end of the second day – one of full paddling, warm sun
and glassy water – we were again blessed with the passage
of two male orcas and the visit from our friend the sea lion.
“This
group came to find a refuge from everyday life and to relax. They
loved to kayak and to learn about nature. What they didn’t
necessarily expect was to find such peace, friendship and understanding,
and the joy of appreciating the moment.
“ Overall,
we saw several different groups of orcas during the first two days,
a humpback on day three, Steller’s sea lions, kingfishers,
great blue herons, dozens of bald eagles, a mink and lots of other
wildlife. We had flat calm water and a full moon on our night paddle,
when we had to choose between hiding from the moon to see the luminescence
better and exposing ourselves to a gorgeous full moon and the quiet
of the night.
“This
was a trip that overcame expectations. Incredible weather, amazing
wildlife and, above all, a very special group of people that have
marked my life forever. Within this group each of us could find
friendship and understanding and share life experiences.”
Both our trips
went out this week with high expectations and from our guides’
reports, it looks like everyone’s hopes were well satisfied.
 Guide
Cory Gardner’s July 23rd Wild Orca report
included these comments:
On a clear evening
after dinner, Darren took a couple of guest out in the kayaks. They
were surprised by a hundred Pacific white-sided dolphins who took
a liking to the kayaks and swam all around and under them, leaping
into the air and racing alongside.
Another day,
a seal rolled on the surface near our kayaks, looking very cute
with its big, brown eyes. It eventually swam under our kayaks, gliding
gracefully through the kelp.
We were surprised
by a humpback whale just outside Port McNeill on our way back to
town. He surfaced just a couple of yards from our water taxi amid
excited shouts from our group.
On our last
day out, the A24 pod of orcas passed by camp, hitching a ride on
the current that carried them into Johnstone Strait.
Every morning
we awoke to the sound of the baby eagle in the nest above our camp
chirping for food – a very sweet sound.
This was a very
fun trip with a great group.
Sam’s
July 22nd Inside Passage/Wildlife Discovery journey
was just as planned (and always hoped for), a wildlife bonanza.
Every day an
incredible variety of animals were sighted. Humpback whales, black
bears (young and adult on different beaches), deer (mother and fawn
and another buck in our camp site), river otters, Steller’s
sea lions, harbour seals, great blue herons, pileated woodpeckers
(rarely seen), belted kingfishers, Dall’s porpoises, dozens
of bald eagles and, with a very low tide on our last day, great
intertidal life during a very relaxing, shoreline paddle.
The glassy calm
waters this week gave us some very lazy, laid back paddles. We even
had tea and hot chocolate and snacks while afloat one day on our
‘floating café.’
We started a
night paddle on a gorgeous, starry night with a beautiful moon that
set behind the mountains, darkening the night and allowing the bioluminescense
to glow at its brightest.
We had a small
group of two couples from Britain who all enjoyed each others’
company and quickly got into the pace of living outdoors. They were
very keen on learning all they could and we were happy to spend
lots of time exploring habitat and wildlife all new to them. We
paddled a lot and relaxed a lot this week – just right.
Somehow the
orcas that were around just weren’t where we were at the right
times, but we had good luck with a humpback whale mother and calf,
the little one breaching about 200 yards from our kayaks. This was
a great week of both Wildlife Discovery and personal discovery.
Can’t wait until next week.
 July
16, Wild Orca Adventure
Luke and Samanta filed a very positive trip report from this Wild
Orca Adventure.
“What
a start to a ‘Wild Orca!!’ Arrived at camp with reports
of orcas just around the corner, so after a hastened departure from
camp, we paddled out and encountered them immediately, a big male
and female feeding on salmon. A good hour was spent watching before
heading back to camp for lunch, passing Dall’s porpoises and
eagles along the way.
“Day two
started with a fantastic journey through the intertidal zone, looking
at and even touching some of the many wonderful creatures below.
We paddled to a beautiful, pebble beach and hiked through the lush,
mystical forest, arriving at a cliff top with spectacular views.
A perfect site for lunch.
“Once
back at camp, we were treated to a humpback putting on a show shortly
after dinner. We followed that up with an amazing night paddle,
with the highlight for many being the 3-foot long salmon swimming
by under us, lit up by the glowing, luminous plankton.
“We lazed
in the sun on day three on a white shell beach and later paddled
through our favorite lagoon, a very unique and mysterious habitat
that always inspires a sense of reverence in all of us. A close
encounter with a sea lion topped off a great day’s paddling.
A little drizzle in the evening brought everyone together in the
kitchen and led to a lot of fun around meal time.
“We had
a great group of people, enjoyed wonderful marine life, the blows
of a humpback whale echoing off the cliffs across from camp, dolphins,
harbour and Dall’s porpoises, tons of sea birds and eagles,
big Chinook salmon visible below, and a bit of fog to add a sense
of mystery to it all. A very peaceful, contemplative four days with
people who were happy with such a special time in the wilderness,
relaxing and soaking it all up.”
July
15, 2007
Two Inside Passage, trips
ran this week, a six-day Wildlife Discovery adventure and another
six days of for a custom, family adventure. From our guides’
reports, it’s easy to see that all is well on the waters of
Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound this July season.
 July
8, Wildlife Discovery
Cory and Luke were in charge of our Wildlife Discovery kayaking
journey. A few comments from their report:
We had a very enthusiastic
group of kayakers this week, so we covered more distance than usual.
Our first day was one of distance; we paddled to an abandoned Native
village under a beautiful, sunny sky, which was to become the norm
for the entire week. We saw the old totem poles and lazed on the
beach eating ripe thimbleberries and blackberries.
Our third day
was one of navigating around an island, staying close to shore at
first because of fog. The fog created a surreal, albeit hidden world
of porpoises, breaching humpback whales, huge clusters of eagles
and happy faces. It was hot enough for some of us to go swimming
in the frigid water in the afternoon.
The night paddle
was a highlight for many, including the guides. We had a close encounter
with porpoises in the dark, all manner of strange chants, brilliantly
echoed, intense bioluminescense and a pack of strangely human sounding
wolves howling at the stars.
Jay’s birthday
was his “best one ever,” our Kiwi guide Luke gave Jay
a “Haka,” (new Zealand’s Maori warrior dance),
as a present via firelight.
We saw the baby
humpback breaching in the distance; otherwise, the orcas have been
incredibly slow to show up in regular numbers this season and we
missed them this week. We did see 35 or more dolphins feeding in
front of camp.
The people made
this trip the best one imaginable for Cory and Luke and everyone
had tears as all hugged and said goodbye at trip’s end.
 July
9, Orca Humpback Odyssey
We are fortunate to be chosen to run a few custom, private trips
now and then and this week we did a very special one. Samanta, Ryan,
Mat and Matt all assisted and private chef Drew Jackson helped our
Blackfish Café see new levels of wilderness cuisine.
The flat calm waters
we saw all week joined with the sometimes hot sun and the clear,
starry nights to give us ideal conditions for kayaking and living
in the wilderness. Lots of music from the guitars and voices around
the campfire lent a lot of enjoyment to our evenings.
On the next to last day,
one of our guests decided to ride in the center cockpit of the one
three-person kayak and play guitar and sing. Exploring the islands
under the eyes curious seals and bald eagles accompanied by music
made this the most relaxing end enjoyable paddle ever.
A humpback whale was
seen on our journey to our first camp and, while it wasn’t
a strong week for wildlife sightings, the orcas encountered on the
final day, allowing us to take a very close look as they surfaced
near us, seemingly in slow motion. A number of sea lions, Dall’s
porpoises and of course bald eagles gave us some unique sightings.
This was a great family
to share the week with, full of music, interested in paddling, exploring
a new environment to them and having fun singing and playing together.
This was a week of exploration and fun! The family really enjoyed
their time together, both on the water and back in camp.
July
1 Orca Humpback Odyssey:
Our
first Inside
Passage/Orca Humpback Odyssey of the season has come back. A
full group led by Cory, Luke and Matt got their share of wildlife
sightings and experienced the long days of early summer.
Orcas have been unusually
slow to show up in large numbers this year, apparently due to an
abundance of salmon just outside our area. No doubt they’ll
be moving in this week, as they are usually quite regular residents
by the end of June.
But the group saw one
whale briefly on its first day out and on the last day were treated
to a great show from a mother and calf humpback whale, with the
baby repeatedly launching itself out of the water. Pacific White-sided
dolphins passed by camp on one occasion while feeding in Johnstone
Strait, spraying water, leaping well clear of the water and kicking
salmon into the air.
A river otter was seen
scampering out of the water toward its burrow ashore and a Steller’s
sea lion passed by camp at dusk one evening. Harbour porpoise and
seals were sighted. Four black bears sighted on beaches at various
times, watching one foraging on a beach was one of the group’s
highlights. Apparently tired from its meal, it was seen walking
into a clump of brush only to lie down and take a nap.
One of Cory’s comments:
“Great trip with a diverse and fun group of people.”
July
2 Wild Orca Adventure:
Our first Wild Orca Adventure
was another full group led by Darren and Ryan. These trips intend
to offer kayaking at its best with a focus on encountering whales.
While orcas haven’t been seen often, we were treated to a
very special event on our first day on the water. It was windy this
day so we stayed close to shore and near camp. But shortly after
we got on the water a minke whale surprised us by surfacing just
40 yards away from our groups of kayaks.
With ten minutes of that
encounter, we were again surprised when two orcas appeared close
by. As we were reveling in those special experiences, a pod of nine
more orcas appeared and before we had a chance to respond they were
surfacing quite close to our kayaks. We later identified these as
resident orcas from the “southern community.” The whales
of the southern and northern communities rarely overlap their large
territorial boundaries. But occasionally the southern residents
make a quick trip through our area, apparently to sweep up some
salmon while they are waiting for them to arrive further south.
Our Wild Orca camp is
located in an area where tidal currents rush one way or another,
especially on larger tides like we had mid-week. Kayakers can use
the currents to get some very nice, “free rides” and
we were all impressed by the movement of the water and by learning
a little about how to time our journeys around the forces of nature.
Drifting through a tidal
lagoon on flat, calm waters and collecting driftwood to fuel our
warm campfire were some of the things that made this both an exciting
and a relaxing adventure.
We enjoyed how the seals
followed our kayaks at times. The bald eagle nest in a tree within
our campsite is always an exciting presence. Sighting a humpback
whale during our water taxi ride at trip’s end was a nice
bonus and a great way to end an exceptional journey.
Ryan’s
summary: “A relaxed sea kayak exploration with a great team
who all achieved something special on all different levels.”
 June
24 Wildlife Discovery:
There’s nothing like the first trip of any season. The freshness
of a new season among the islands, the return to our favorite camp
sites and paddling routes, and the first sightings of the whales.
All combine to create an air of excitement that is hard to match.
Our guides led
our first Wildlife
Discovery group through a highly enjoyable week of adventure.
We’re seeing more and more visitors from across the water
and this group included two from Britain and one from Australia.
While orcas
were seen by whale watching boats in the area, we were unlucky enough
to miss them this week. But we did have two special encounters with
a humpback whale and her calf on the first and last days of the
trip. A black bear also let us have a peek at its life by overturning
rocks on a beach in search of small crabs and fish.
This group was
always happy to be wherever they found themselves, whether paddling
glassy waters in the sun, taking an afternoon hike while avoiding
a windy afternoon’s choppy waters, consuming the fare our
camp kitchens turned out, reading and relaxing. ‘Relaxation
101’ was the designated course for the week and all passed
with honours. The group bonded extremely well and simply knew how
to have a good time. It was a great group to start off our 25th
season with. Thanks to all for traveling so far to spend a few memorable
days with us.
June
19, 2007
Our guides are just wrapping up our 2007 pre-season
training. We spend two weeks intensively working on preparing our
new and veteran guide team for all our coming trips.
From Northern Lights Expedition Director David Arcese,
who still trains all our guides for now the 25th year: “It’s
different every year as both Northern Lights and the sea kayak guiding
community evolves. We have great new gear and some new cuisine for
everyone to become familiar with. New personalities as always dominate
the feel of each group of guides. We’ve got a truly international
crew this year.”
“In addition to Samanta returning as our Brazilian
head guide, we welcome Ryan and Luke from New Zealand (a source
of a few of our favorite all-time guides over the years), and Matt
from Australia. Of course we have Canadians back with us: Cory,
Darren, Mat and Emily. And 6th year guide Luke Gutowski is promising
to return in September for a trip or two.”
Our week on the water was really inspiring. It’s
always fun to see how the new group shapes up and blends into our
veteran staff. We had some June winds, just enough to help us with
our route planning, just one day of with a light shower and nice,
calm days the rest of the week. We all got sun burns on our last
day out as things heated up.
We had a very nice visit from 15-20 Dall’s
porpoises scattered across the water near one of our camps. An estimated
150 Pacific white-sided dolphins were seen by our whale watching
friends, just around the island from our camp. We missed seeing
them ourselves but they’ll be back. We heard one loud blow
we believe was a humpback whale but we were just rounding a bend
going the opposite direction.
Eagles were everywhere as they always are in June.
We saw four bears on beaches and paddled up close enough to one
to exchange some friendly eye contact. It went about its business
of turning over rocks and licking up little crabs without minding
our presence.
We also revisited an abandoned Native village that’s
been on our route for many years and remembered the feeling of awe
we have at the culture that thrived there for thousands of years.
Being back on the water and drifting through the
islands is a big event to those of us who feel like it’s been
too long between kayaking seasons. And who feel it’s been
too long since we’ve had a chance to watch the sky turn pink
at the end of the day over the ocean, hear the blows of the porpoises
and whales and watch the eagles locking talons while deciding whose
territory is whose. We’re starting our first trips on Sunday
and we’re anxious to greet our first group of travelers.
April
23, 2007
From Guides Luke Gutowski and Samanta Chu
Well, we're
back. Six days in wonderful Baja,
and while words and pictures don't come close to the real experience,
we'll do our best.
We boarded our mothership
in the city of La Paz and were immediately aware of the incredible
Mexican hospitality provided by all members of the ship. From the
jovial ‘capitan,’ to the always smiling kitchen crew
(who in turn gave us great cuisine to smile about!) they always
made us feel at home. We also met our Canadian naturalists, who
were never short of a fascinating fact or entertaining story from
20 plus years of experience in the area.
Our group was
a wonderful mix of eight seasoned travelers, who had a very contagious
sense of adventure and took to heart that laughter was the best
medicine, as it was often ringing through the boat!
The first day we motored
out to the beautiful Espiritu Santo Island, our first taste of the
ruggedly beautiful Baja coastline. It's composed of incredible red
sandstone cliffs and wind- and water-carved formations, and occasionally
opens up to some of the most beautiful turquoise bays imaginable.
It was in one of these bays that we decided would be perfect for
our first introductory paddle and snorkel, as well as a beach BBQ
as we acclimatized to the summer-like sun and warmth! The snorkeling
was fabulous as we saw many wonderfully shaped corals, iridescent
fish, and exotic crabs, starfish, and sea cucumbers of shapes and
colors quite different from the Pacific Northwest.
The second day
began with blue skies and mirror-like waters, so we couldn't resist
jumping in our kayaks from the start. We paddled to some islets
just off the main island, and the anticipated wildlife didn't disappoint.
Dozens of California sea lions seemed to be everywhere, from being
placed in the most unusual positions rather high up in nooks on
the rocks, to swimming and splashing around us in a very curious
and playful way. There were also many sea birds; herons, frigates,
gulls, pelicans, cormorants, and even a couple blue footed boobies
who had a very unusual march-stepping motion as part of their courtship.
We then traded in our kayaks for snorkels, and to get a below-the-surface
view of these playful sea lions. Not only did a few curious animals
come quite close to check us out, but what a memorable experience
to see how graceful these enormous animals can truly be. Reboarding
our ship, we then traveled north over the glassy Sea of Cortez.
The day’s once-in-a-lifetime events were not finished yet,
as we encountered the biggest animal on Earth, the blue whale!
The third day
started with a paddle to a tiny fishing settlement, where five families
have lived for the past 80 years. It was fascinating to watch them
bring in a great catch of tuna, rays, sharks, and crabs, among other
types of fish. They even gave us some fresh fish which was later
turned into a very tasty ceviche dish! The afternoon was again how
any day should be on a sunny, warm, Mexican afternoon, filled with
snorkeling, swimming, and beach combing. The evening featured star
gazing with one of the naturalists, who also teaches astronomy.
Needless to say, staring up at the greatest planetarium (the real
night sky) with a great teacher was a real highlight.
The fourth day,
in true showmanship, proved to keep getting better! Another calm
sunny morning, we started paddling down the isolated shoreline of
San Jose Island, and could barely believe the numerous stone arches
and caves that we were able to explore both in kayaks and on foot.
We also found a beach at the base of some enormous limestone cliffs
that was littered with fossils, a reminder that we were standing
on what was once a sea floor. The afternoon began with the appearance
of a great number of manta rays, who appear to be 'flapping' their
wings just below the surface, and occasionally jump clear of the
water while continuing to flap! Then as if on cue, a humpback whale
blow was sighted. It's lazy feeding pattern allowed us to get a
very close look, and both our cameras and memories were quickly
filled with images of impressive blows and the graceful 'fluking'
of the giant animal. And as if that wasn't enough, on route to our
anchorage, a number of bottlenose dolphins joined us and played
in our bow wake, again to the excitement of all aboard!
And for our
last day, it seemed like a perfect ending. Another perfect day,
a glassy calm paddle, a hike exploring the unusual desert vegetation,
and a snorkel to get one last glimpse at the impressive underwater
diversity. We sadly left the boat, but checked into a beautiful
waterfront hotel, where we gathered for dinner before making many
fond farewells . But the great thing is, we know the Baja will be
waiting for us all again next year!
Lela (the
Panterra naturalist onboard) provided us with a daily photo journal
of the trip as well. click
here to view it.
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